Hartwood Tulum, Mexico

Certain experiences from last week’s vacation in Tulum, Mexico will stick in my memory for years to come. Snorkeling in a deep dark Cenote, the masa white sand beaches (that’s what we called them), and dinner at Hartwood. I’m planning to write a travel guide with all of my favorite Tulum travel tips and bits, but first dinner at Hartwood. It simply wouldn’t do this meal justice to lump it in with the rest of our trip, and quite frankly, it was the best food we ate all week.

Located on the jungle side of Tulum’s beach road, Hartwood is an open-air restaurant open only for dinner. No reservations. To say that there is a bit of a cult-following feel to this place is an understatement. The hype seems to spread like wildfire between travelers, bloggers and over social media. I had to experience it for myself.

I was warned that the wait is usually long and to arrive early, as in 30 minutes before the doors, or gates, open. It was true, the line had already formed, although not quite as long as expected, and we happily took our spot along with two other couples from Brooklyn and Nashville who had arrived even earlier than we had.

The strong smell of burning wood and natural mosquito repellent filled the small space giving a hazy fog to the small wooden tables and lush jungle trees. At times you can hardly make out crates of fresh tropical fruits or the chefs grilling our dinner through the smoke. One thing I’m sure of, that smoking wood is necessary as the Tulum jungle is thick with mosquitos all ready to make a meal out of Hartwood diners. Thank goodness the cocktails are strong and the food, delicious.

Everything on the menu is locally sourced, caught, grown and raised, cooked fresh each night on a large wood fire grill and wood burning stove. I ordered a passion fruit rum cocktail garnished with a fresh stick of sugar cane, that was to die for.

We started with an order of Jicama Salad topped with crunchy pepitas and dragon fruit dressing and an order of Marlin Ceviche. For dinner, I had the Red Snapper (Filete de Huachinango) on a bed of greens and caramelized pineapple. Jason ordered steak with a Caribbean version of scalloped potatoes. Is there anything better than the flavor of charred steak prepared over a wood fire? I mean really.

For dessert, Elote and Queso ice creams. One scoop of corn ice cream as sweet and starchy as you might expect from fresh summer corn and one scoop of cheese ice cream made with mild Mexican Queso Fresco. Both topped with a drizzle of local honey. We scraped up every last melted drop and secretly wished for seconds. (Here’s a similar recipe for corn ice cream to try)

I would have loved to linger after dinner, possibly have another cocktail or make our way to the rustic little bar, but with the oppressing humidity of jungle heat and the heavily perfumed smoke, a cold shower and bed sounded much more appealing.

As I sat savoring every bite of snapper, bitter greens, and sweet pineapple, I thought, “This is a meal I will dream about.”

photos by Leah Bergman

Hartwood

Carretera Tulum Boca Paila
7.6KM Tulum Quintana Roo
CP 77780 Mexico

Open for dinner only, 6 – 10 pm. Closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

TRAVEL TIPS: Arrive early to avoid a long wait as the restaurant is small. Cash only, bring Pesos. Come prepared with your own mosquito repellent. The smoke definitely helps but I left with multiple bites.